Today is Sunday, May 3 and we are enroute to Stockash. Leaving Ulm, I had one transfer at Mengen. On the platform at the Mengen station, I noticed the train has fewer cars than most I had traveled on. The conductor said I could go ahead and board. Lucky for me that I chose the first car which gave me the best vantage point to observe the unusual activity about to unfold.

The Beaver Train

As we departed, I also noticed that the we were traveling through a swampy area with water on both sides of the tracks. The train was moving at a slow speed, then stopped briefly at a crossroad where two men quickly scrambled on with a cooler and a supply of various snacks. Just as quickly they hopped off again. 

Next stop at a crossroads, a young woman carrying a huge white bag hopped on. She began pulling what looked like pillows out of the bag, followed by something brown and fuzzy. She began scrambling into the brown, fuzzy costume with the conductor helping her get the stuffing in place. Watching this unfold, I couldn’t hold back my laughter.

While continuing to help the woman with the costume, the conductor explained to me that I was onboard the Beaver Train. What?

Conductor: Beavers live in the water along the tracks. So, on Sunday we run the Beaver Train. It is for the children because it is Sunday.

Me: So the Beaver greets children along the route?

Conductor: Yes, it is a special train.

Me: If I was traveling any day but Sunday, what train would I be on?

Conductor: Any other day, you would have been routed through a different station for your trip to Stockach. But it is Sunday, so you are on the Beaver Train.

An unexpected fun way to begin my Sunday.

Stockach on a Sunday

Arriving at this lovely little town, I find my hotel, Fortuna, across the street. This is another self-check in. By now, I’ve become accustomed to this, entering my code in the key safe and plucking my key from the rack.

I open the door and, to my knowledge, I am the only person on the premises of this lovely historic building. As the hotel proprietor explained to me at Monday breakfast “On Sunday, we are in repose.”

As I walked about, it was clear the entire town was in repose. The only eatery open around mid-day was a bistro where a child’s birthday party was being held. I had a delicious light meal, then spent the day walking about, looking for any vestiges of Maria Antonia’s stay.

Town Preparation for Maria Antonia

Maria Antonia arrived from the direction of Mengen as I did, but no Beaver train for her (although I like to think the tomboy in this 14-year old archduchess would have loved it). She arrived with 57 carriages, 450 horses and the expectation that fresh horses would be provided by the locals. And, of course, the 257 attendants needed to be fed.

Maria Antonia had a one-night stay in Stockash at the Gasthaus Zum Weiben Kreuz, or White Cross Hotel. It no longer exists as a hotel. I spent time walking about this lovely town to see if I can spot a nameplate or something to identify the White Cross but was unsuccessful. After my trip, I did learn that the building was ruined and rebuilt many times and behind the remaining facade serves as an administrative building.

Prior to Maria Antonia’s arrival, the town was required to repair roads to make them passable and to have a fresh coat of paint on all the buildings. Like other towns and monasteries, the requirements to ensure a safe arrival and a good impression left many with debts to be paid over future years.

Two hundred plus years later, this lovely quiet town was a joy to visit. So, farewell Stockach. We are off to the Black Forest.