Retracing Maria Antonia’s Bridal Journey – Days 10 & 11 Travel Break: Stymied by Obermarchtal, On to Günzburg

We’re off to Günzburg for a two-night stay, April 31 and May 1. Why am I in Günzburg for two nights? Because I was unable to spend the second night at Obermarchtal Monastery (Maria Antonia’s May 1 stay), the first stop on the bridal journey where I have been stymied. The monastery is now a hotel and guesthouse, a restful stay with gardens and terrace and I understand a conference and education center.

Obermarchtal, where I did not stay May 1, 2026 but Maria Antonio did May 1, 1770.

The Stop I Didn’t Make

I had attempted for six months to get a room at Obermarchtal with no success and no other hotels nearby in the town of Obermarchtal. Finally, I emailed and asked if I could tour the property for a brief visit They declined as they limit visitors to guests only.

Obermarchtal had been an important abbey during Maria Antonia’s time, and unlike me, was welcomed there as a guest. From its origins in the year 776 as an imperial monastery, it became secularized in 1803 (a mere 33 years after the Maria Antonia’s visit) during the Napoleonic era.

The Stop I Did Make – Gúnzburg

But, enough about what I didn’t do. On my train from Augsburg, there were just a few passengers. At my stop for Gunzburg, I pushed the wrong button to open the door at the platform. The train continued on, so nothing to do but get off at the next stop and double back. Another train destined to Günzburg arrived almost immediately, so all was well.

Maria Antonia had no such problem and good for her as she had a busy schedule with her Aunt, Princess (also Abbess) Charlotte of Lorraine who came to visit her. On that note, I learned that Charlotte as a princess and an abbess was not required to take vows or experience any other limits of nuns in the abbey. Sort of the best of both worlds.

The archduchess and the abbess made a pilgrimage together to the church at Kônigin Bild near Burgau. That church no longer exists, having been demolished 18 years later. Time moves on and the area is again busy as it is near the location of Legoland Deutschland Amusement Park.

May 1 is a public holiday, Labor Day, in Germany. Families in Günzburg were out enjoying the holiday weekend, relaxing on the wonderful, lengthy pedestrian town, enjoying the space from early in the morning to late evening.

Someone I chatted with in Augsburg told me that Marie Antonia may have stayed at the Goldener Löwe (Yellow Lion)Inn. I decided to pull out my hiking sticks, wander over to the little village next door and check it out. I later determined they were likely referring to another Marie (Maria Elizabeth) in the line of royalty of the next generation. The hotel did have a history of royals hosting there. Although the establishment was closed, the walk was worthwhile.

I took my time walking around the Frauenkirch, a church just off the square. The buildings and grounds overlooking the Danube are beautiful.

I noticed a huge crowd outside an ice cream shop, Eisdiele Stanghetto – Gelato e Caffè Italiano, All the outdoor seating was filled with people enjoying their ice cream, with a long line of people waiting to order.

Turning to a couple behind me in the long line, I said hallo and asked if they spoke English. The young man said no but the young woman with him responded in the affirmative.

Young woman: “Yes, I speak English. Do you have a question?”

Me: “Yes, thank you. Why are there so many people in line for ice cream?”

Young Woman: “Because ice cream is good.”

Enough said. And it was good. I enjoyed my whipped pistachio accented with bits of fresh kiwi. While wandering back toward my hotel, I notice two other ice cream stands with very long lines. Obviously, 4 p.m. is the happy hour for ice cream in Günzburg.

A sweet way to end my time in Günzburg. On to Ulm tomorrow.

2 comments

  1. Sorry you missed Obermarchtal. Loved the ice cream line story.

    Again, you should publish this memoir. Looking forward to the next 2 days.

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