We’re in current day Paris in an area that is de la Muette, the former location of a cottage of King Louis XV. Today is Friday, May 15. We’ve been on the road (for Marie Antoinette) and on the rails (for me) for 25 days. We are within a day of completing this marathon bridal journey, so stay strong.

The Château de la Muette was located on what was then the outskirts of Paris in the Bois de Boulogne, a beautiful forest for – you guessed it – hunting. It was set up as a royal hunting reserve as long ago as the 1200s. If you visit today, it is home to a beautiful immense park in the very toney 16th arrondissement of Paris.

Marie Antoinette’s Stay at de Muette

Our last stop before Versailles, the Château de la Muette, no longer exists. It was sold, then demolished. In its place, in the early 1900’s a new château was built by Henri de Rothschild. During WWII, the Nazi’s took possession of Muette. Following the war, the château was sold to the Organization of Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) set up under the Marshall Plan to help administer funds provided by the United States to promote post-war recovery and to encourage European economic cooperation. That building is very near the site of the original château.

The single evening stay at Muette included the majority of the Royal Court. Muette is reported to be the first meeting of Madame du Barry, King Louis XV’s most favored mistress. According to various sources, the Dauphine’s innocence extended to a lack of understanding of the role of Madame Du Barry, an introduction to a very different royal court than the Austrian court she where she was raised.

My Day in Search de la Muette

From my hotel in Paris Nord, I signed off on train travel. I loved those convenient connections, but my Eurail card isn’t good in Paris. I’ve used the Paris metro extensively in previous visits, but decided that 20 stops during 25 days on this journey, Uber would be the way to go. I was a good decision as I found Uber in Paris to be both reasonably priced and reliable.

I was dropped at the address of the OECD and began to get my bearings. Aside from seeing what I believe was the reuse of the Muette, it was difficult to get near. I had read that the Dauphin and Dauphine spent time at de la Muette walking about the grounds with no security. Things have changed. This building likely has heavier security than the royals ever considered.

While Muette may not exist in its original state, Paris has not forgotten. Take a walk through the neighborhood of the 16th Arrondissement near the Bois de Boulogne and you will see its memory everywhere.

I enjoyed walking the streets of the neighborhood for the afternoon, shopping and eating. During my trip through Austria, Germany and France on Marie Antoinette’s bridal journey, I struggled to match my appetite with the dining habits in Europe. I learned by experience that if I didn’t stop for lunch between certain hours, I was not going to receive a meal. I could get a cup of coffee or tea or a glass of wine. I could get a delicious dessert, but I was not going to get a sandwich or an entrée.

To my delight, finding myself hungry after about 2:00 on this Friday afternoon, restaurants in the neighborhood were still serving meals with people filling tables up and down the streets. I stepped into a popular brasserie, La Rolonde de la Muette, with every table filled. I used the favorite move for seating for those of us who travel solo: ask for a seat at the bar.

From that vantage point, I had an opportunity to watch relaxed Parisians on a Friday afternoon enjoying time with friends or family over drinks and a delicious late lunch. I chose their Classic Chicken Caesar with a sparkling water, followed by a gourmet coffee and pastries.

Back to my hotel later, I tried to turn in early. Marie Antoinette’s last day of this 26-day journey starts early and I plan to start early as well. Paris was not going to bed early. It is May 16 and it is still full daylight and a weekend awaits.

Hang in here for the last day of our journey as the bride-to-be Dauphine approaches Versailles.