It’s Sunday, May 10 and Day 20 of this marathon journey. When I’m running a marathon rather than doing a marathon of stops following Marie Antoinette’s bridal journey, I know it is time to relax my body, stay focused and on pace. The same applies for the last six days of this journey.

I have an hour on the train with no stops to enjoy the Grand Est countryside view. We pass by open fields, then Commercy and its marvelous chateau, principal residence of the Prince of Commercy.

On to Bar le Duc to see what we can learn about Marie Antoinette’s time here and what this stop has to offer.

Marie Antoinette’s Accommodations

The wonderful building below with its hipped roof and stained glass windows was originally a private residence of the Florainville family, then became the property of the city where it continues to serve as Mayor’s office and some Justice Department offices. Marie Antoinette lodged in the building during her overnight. It was already a Town Hall during her stay.

My Accommodations

Enroute to my hôte, I walked from the train station through what appeared to be a street fair. Arriving at the address to drop my bag, I found no one there. I sat on the stoop and waited. The family, returning from church services, soon arrived en masse. Check-in time was late afternoon, but I was allowed to leave my bag. Since they would be away for the day, I get a primer on the particulars of their door lock (I’ve learned through my 19 days of travel every entry has a different lock system) and I was on my way to explore Bar-Le-Duc (or simply Duc as the locals refer to their town).

Lower Town – Ville Basse

This is a hilly city and my hôte was about halfway up the largest hill. After leaving my bag, I walk back down the hill to explore that street fair, Foire de Printemps. It is actually an agricultural fair, dating back centuries and still obviously enjoyed as I make my way through what appears to be everyone from the countryside.

It rained much of the day, making it difficulty to get a lot of photos. There was judging and auctioning of the best cattle and sheep. There were cages of chickens and rabbits of every variety.

After making my way in and out of the rain looking at blocks of open air stands, I head back up that hill to the top of Duc.

Upper Town/Ville Haut

Did I mention this is a hilly town? It is also quite old, about a thousand years old, fortified from about 1300 forward.

It’s a long way up to the Musée Barrois, housed in the chateau, formerly the home of the dukes. My Garmin says I hiked 6 1/2 miles around this town, with an 850 feet climb from the bottom to the Musée.

The museum is temporarily closed. Were it open, I would have seen a table linen that belonged to Marie Antoinette, decorated with emblems of her Austrian heritage. The exterior of the buildings and the view of the countryside and village below from this vantage point made the rainy climb worthwhile.

Before I depart in the morning, I scout out the tourist office to purchase the special currant jelly, made with berries hand seeded with a quill. I’ve purchased very few momentos on this journey, keeping my bags light. But, I couldn’t resist a small jar of confiture to share with friends back home.

I’m back on the train in the direction of Chalons-en-Champagne for Day 21.