Auf wiedersehen Germany and Bonjour to La France. It’s Thursday, May 7. As we arrive on the Grand Ile of Strasbourg, train announcements change from German to French. I’m entering what is today the political capital of the European Union, known as Europe’s crossroads. It was a crossroads for Maria Antonia as well.

The Hand-Over

This is a big day, the day 14-year old Maria Antonia was “handed over” to the French. She ceases to exist as the archduchess Maria Antonia and on a little island on the Rhine known as Ile Aux Épis becomes Marie Antoinette, Dauphine de France.

This hand-over occurred near the city of Kehl where two branches of the Rhine converge. The royal party stops on that island in the middle of the Rhine, more or less neutral territory between Germany and France, the Ile aux Epis was uninhabited at the time of Maria’s hand-over. later beccoming a business area, then a neighborhood.

A temporary structure was built on the island with several chambers. Maria Antonia was stripped of all of her clothing, right down to her shoes and underwear. She was then redressed in a French wardrobe by members of the French court. Nothing that was Austrian was to accompany her, perhaps including an Austrian dog (historians vary on the dog topic).

In his day and Maria’s day, the young author and philosopher Goethe (21 yrs old the year Maria Antoinette traveled through), had no difficulty finding the island. In his autobiography, Out of My Life: Truth and Fiction, he tells of bribing a guard to gain entrance on the island where he witnessed the ceremony.

Goethe was more successful than me. There is supposedly a pedestrian bridge, an industrial side of the island and a neighbor side with parks. Though it is only a few short miles from Strasbourg, my time was limited and without specific information (apparently the tourist information in the area doesn’t deem this island worthy of mention as an historic site) I had to make a choice on where to use my time. I chose staying in Strasbourg where I could walk to several sites. If (when) I return, I will find my way to that island.

On to Strasbourg as the Dauphine

After the hand-over ceremony, the Austrian entourage makes a swift exit not to be seen again. Marie is only familiar with one or two people in the French entourage who had represented France in making marriage arrangements with the Empress Maria Thèresa. All familiarity with people and things Austrian is gone.

Marie Antoinette is hosted for the night in Strasbourg by the Rohan family of French nobility originally from the Brittany region. Their palace is on the Rhine (below) and not far from the famous Strasbourg Cathedral. To my eye, it seems rather dark and overwhelming,

Strasbourg is a beautiful city, but has the appearance of being well lived-in. It gives me the sense of an adult child still dealing with the hangover of custody battles between parents, in this case France and Germany. The city has changed nationalities four times since the 1600’s as Germany and France continued their custody battle over this lovely city on the Rhine.

The Strasbourg Cathedral went through its own changes over the centuries. It began as a Catholic church in the 1100’s, became a Protestant church during the Reformation in the 1500’s, then when Strasbourg became French again in the 1600’s, it again became, and still is, a Catholic church.

The neighborhood around the cathedral and the palace is full of people and plenty of outdoor cafes for refreshments and celebration. On the day of my visit it was filled with soccer fans and red hat ladies.

I complete my day in Strasbourg by taking a boat ride encircling Strasbourg on the Ill River. We cruise past neighborhoods and commercial areas.

We pass by the site of the European Union, which of course has its own pontoon.

After a too-short day, it’s time to move on to Marie Antoinette’s next stop. Enough of big cities for now. Are you ready for a day in the French countryside? We’re off to Saverne.